Tag Archive: NEVE

Studiomaster 16-4-8 restore

paul post on September 24th, 2008
Posted in Technology Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hi, so I’ve just picked up an old Studiomaster 16-4-8 in great condition. Its just a bit noisy, Id like to recap it and mod it.
I have some info such as:

I went through a few of these around 20 years ago. Installing local .1 uf bypass caps on the power rails does help. All feedback loops need to have a small cap across, most stages had them. Use Wima FKP-2 or MKP-2 polyprop caps in the EQ, especially the hi mid and hi shelf. Opamps can be the older OPA 2134 BurrBrown stuff, the LT1358, the OP-275, the AD 8599 (with a brown Dog adaptor) or the National LME49720/LME49860, balanced outputs can use the National LM6172 for great output drive. Also check out the new AD8510 series, a BurrBrown fet input sub for the OPA134 series. Mic pre transistors can be 2SA1316 or 2SA1083’s to lower front end noise and add some HF air. A nice big Power One HDD-15-5A will be a good power supply if you add the small 1/2 amp 48 volt supply for phantom. Then you can play with opamps all day long. The summing amps in the master should be the National LME part due to it’s large open loop gain, = a clearer mix buss.
Jim Williams


I started by the power supply caps; major improvement in noise and hum. I found out that most original caps were rated low, like 16 volts for a 15 volt power supply, so I used 25 volts throughout (except where the design called for higher voltage).


Replace with the same type of capacitor to the one you remove. So, if you remove a 10uF or 22uF tantalum capacitor, you do NOT replace it with an aluminium electrolytic!
2. Neve designers were restricted back then on the size of capacitors and, in the case of the power decoupling to the 183/283 (fitted to the frame of the module), fitted the largest value that could fit in there… usually 640uF. I personally recommend fitting the largest capacitor that you can now fit in there… like a 4,700uF which may be the same size now as the original.
There is nothing to be gained (and, indeed factors may go against you in extreme cases) by using a much higher voltage electrolytic capacitor. You should fit one as close to the operating voltage as you can. 35v is probably a good, top limit, value.
3. As for capacitors on circuit boards… remembering the warning about substituting tantalums for other types… there’s no harm in fitting bigger value capacitors if they will fit. If it’s decoupling the power rail, it will decouple slightly better. If it’s decoupling between two amp stages or an emitter bypass, it will improve the bass response marginally.
Geoff Tanner

Here are the links to pics:

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Interesting link

paul post on March 18th, 2008
Posted in Technology Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Hey man, hope all is well
Ive included a link of my discussion with one of the original Neve designers, Geoff Tanner

He now designs his own gear
You should take a look around his site and delve into his mind
I really think you would appreciate his knowledge and talent as a designer
Let me know
Have you recieved the disc yet?
Have a good un

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Great info once again

paul post on September 5th, 2007
Posted in Technology Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hey martin, hope all is well. Thanks for all info
I am not looking to put pan knobs on summer, all panning will be done in computer. I’m just looking at summer for summing and maybe adding some other tone/colour Form my research with NEVE it seems there is definitely some kind of difference in lower tone, this is supposed to be due to 2nd or 3rd harmonic distortion and also a sweetening in the high frequencies Whereas the API supposedly gives a more punchy sound I know this is all subjective as to sound, but that’s what i’m hoping to find out for myself whilst replicating this stuff As per Douglas Self i am very interested in his theories and designs also. especially as they seem so cheap thanks once again Paul

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Planned DIY builds

paul post on July 8th, 2007
Posted in Buddhism Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hey Martin, hope you had a good week. Here is the link for some of the
stuff I want to eventually DIY http://www.fivefish.net/diy/default.asp
Check out
Neve 1272
Urei 1176
SSL Compressor
Pre 10 48
API pre amp
Tell me what you think?

I noticed the oscilloscope, that I guess is used to see problems in the waveform, which is obviously from electrical dysfunctions. I also noticed that the out put waveform is a lot bigger. Is that due to the pre-amp side of things? Now is this not the same as turning up the volume or does it have more to do with dynamics/headroom of the sound?
It seems that everyone is always seeming to add a transformer to give it a specific sonic colour? Is this correct?
Hope you have a great weekend and maybe we’ll get to enjoy some of those creations
I’ve added a few books that might build on the knowledge for this post – SP

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70’s Mixer

paul post on July 4th, 2007
Posted in Buddhism Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hi, hope all is well. What you been up to? Any music stuff? I am hopefully picking up an old 70s mixer. The inputs and outputs are 5 pin din connections. I want to add some xlrs and direct outs. What is A. the best way to do this? 2. How is the best way to learn about electronics? I purchased Designing Audio circuits, but I still really cant get my head around it. I would like to make some dealy boxes, the progress to transformer based pre-amps, EQ and Compressors. Any help, tips, information would be great. I would love to understand electronics for this. Favourite outboard would be Neve, API, UA 1776(vintage stuff) Thanks

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